Za početak, pitali smo autoritativne ruske dizajnere, stručnjake koji već dugi niz godina rade na ruskom tržištu, šta zapravo misle o modnim nagradama.
Sovjetski i ruski dizajner Vyacheslav Mikhailovich Zaitsev (brand Slava Zaitsev), čija je modna kuća u centru glavnog grada Rusije ove godine proslavila 40. godišnjicu, o čemu je prvi put 1962. godine napisao članak Paris Match, naslovljen On diktira modu u Moskvi. Zaitseva je kasnije evropska štampa nazvala Crveni Dior, što otprilike znači sovjetski Dior, jedan od najvećih ruskih umetnika veruje da nagrada znači činjenicu da je umetnik nešto postigao.
– Mladi i talentovani momci zaslužuju nagrade. A kako se one odražavaju na njihovu kreativnost na dalje, zavisi od čoveka do čoveka. Dobijanje nagrada je važno za umetnika, podržavajuće je za njega, pogotovo ako su nagrade finansijske. Kad god sam imao priliku davao sam novčane bonuse mladim dizajnerima kako bi mogli da kupuju tkanine i prave nove kolekcije. Nagrade promovišu kreativnost.
Dizajnerka Julia Dalakian (brend Julia Dalakian), redovna učesnica vodećih Nedelja mode, uključujući i Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, na modne nagrade gleda nešto drugačije.
– Svaki podsticaj za kreativnu osobu i preduzetnika definitivno pozitivno utiče na proces formiranja kreativne ličnosti, ako se radi o mladom brendu. Takmičarska osnova za dodelu nagrada, sa moje tačke gledišta, nije uvek pozitivna, pošto svaki žiri ima subjektivni stav. Za mlade, nagrada je priznanje njihovoj posebnoj sposobnosti i želji da prošire svoje vidike, pre svega na nove tehnologije i da prodube svoje tehničko znanje, što, po mom mišljenju, nije dovoljno za dizajnere početnike.
Dizajner šešira i odeće Konstantin Gayday (brend Konstantin Gayday), dobitnik nagrade GQ Čovek godine u nominaciji Dizajner godine (2010) prema GQ Russia Magazinu, na pitanje – da li nagrade imaju pozitivni uticaj na modni brend, slaže se sa mišljenjem stručnjaka.
– Nagrade nesumnjivo stimulišu dizajnera ne samo profesionalno, već i njegov ego, a to je važno za kreatore. One, naravno, imaju pozitivni uticaj na pr brenda, definitivno ne negativan.
Ipak, Konstantin govori prilično negativno o nivou ruskih nagrada.
– Nagrada je vredna samo ako je profesionalcu uručuje profesionalac, bilo da je umetnik daje dizajneru ili su u pitanju neke zaslužene međunarodne publikacije prvog ešalona, ili možda nagrada grada. Nažalost, ovakvih nagrada u našoj zemlji praktično nema.
Dizajnerka ženske odeće Olga Malyarova (brend Olga Malyarova), koja je osvojila drugo mesto u prvoj ruskoj verziji međunarodnog projekta Runway (2011) na kanalu MTV Russia, smatra da je “ovo veoma važno, posebno za kreatore. Radiš i radiš i čekaš da neko to ceni”.
Stručnjaci se slažu da modne nagrade podstiču dizajnere odeće na dalji razvoj, što pozitivno utiče na razvoj celokupne tekstilne industrije. Analizirali smo i nagrade koje su dodeljene u poslednjih 20 godina u Rusiji.
Međuregionalna javna organizacija High Fashion and Pret-a-Porter Association postoji u Rusiji od 2000. Već 22 godine Udruženje razvija projekat Nedelja mode u Moskvi (od 2013. je to Nedelja mode u Moskvi. Made in Russia), čiji je glavni zadatak razvoj domaće modne industrije, pružanje sveobuhvatne pomoći ruskim dizajnerima, promocija ruskih proizvođača lake i tekstilne industrije na maloprodajnim tržištima Ruske Federacije.
Fashion Week u Moskvi održava se 2 puta godišnje – u martu i oktobru i upotpunjuje svetski raspored Nedelja mode. Ukupan broj gostiju Nedelje mode je preko 100.000 po sezoni. Tokom prvih 10 godina, organizatori Nedelje mode uspeli su da pokažu najbolja dostignuća u oblasti mode, postave visoku profesionalnu lestvicu za ruske dizajnere i stvore mehanizam za održavanje događaja koji ispunjava međunarodne standarde. U tom cilju, na Nedelju se pozivaju svetski modni majstori iz Francuske, Italije, Velike Britanije, među kojima su Paco Rabanne, Nina Ricci, Lanvin, Versace, Balenciaga, Balmain, Emanuel Ungaro, Sonia Rykel, Brioni, Roberto Cavalli, Costume National, Fendi, Vivenne Westvood i mnogi drugi, više od 50 svetskih modnih imena. Između 1999. i 2003, poslednjeg dana Nedelje mode Udruženje dodeljuje nagradu Zlatni maneken.
Inače, Udruženje se suočilo sa raznim izazovima u održavanju još jedne modne sezone tokom pandemije Covida-19 i prošlo je kroz stečajni i likvidacioni postupak 2022.
Šou Vyacheslava Zaitseva koji je otvorio gala reviju dobitnika Zlatnog manekena na poslednjoj jubilarnoj Nedelji mode u Moskvi u čast dvadesetpetogodišnjice, 19. marta 2019. Foto: Igor Stražin
U Rusiji je 2003. godine osnovana Međuregionalna javna organizacija Nacionalna akademija modne industrije (NAIM), čija je svrha promocija razvoja domaće modne industrije, popularizacija domaćih brendova modne industrije i tako dalje. Predsednik akademije je Vyacheslav Mikhailovich Zaitsev, a potpredsednik Valentin Yudashkin (brend Valentin Yudashkin) – prvi ruski modni dizajner, koji je dobio status dopisnog člana Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne i Orden Viteza francuske republike “Za zasluge u oblasti književnosti i umetnosti” i Orden “Legije časti” kao i mnoge druge poznate ličnosti ruske mode. 2003. godine, uz podršku Ministarstva industrije i trgovine Ruske Federacije, Trgovinsko-industrijske komore Rusije, Nacionalna akademija modne industrije ustanovila je Nacionalnu nagradu za modnu industriju Zlatno vreteno, koja se dodeljuje svake godine od 2003. do 2020.
Pored zvaničnog simbola, tokom ceremonije dodeljuju se i specijalne nagrade: Zlatna palma – Za doprinos razvoju ruske modne industrije i Kristalna palma – Za doprinos obučavanju domaće modne industrije.
17 dodeli nagrada Uručenje Nacionalne nagrade u oblasti modne industrije Zlatno vreteno, 2020.
Foto: Zlatno Vreteno
Uručenje Nacionalne nagrade u oblasti modne industrije Zlatno vreteno časopisu La Boheme Magazine u nominaciji Edition glavnom uredniku Vladislavu Ananishnevu na 17 dodeli nagrada, 2020. Foto: Zlatno Vreteno
Od 2002. godine u Rusiji je na snazi Federalni zakon “O tehničkoj regulaciji” od 27. decembra 2002. br. 184-FZ. U skladu sa članom 21. “Dobrovoljno potvrđivanje usaglašenosti” ovog zakona, dobrovoljna potvrda usaglašenosti se sprovodi na inicijativu podnosioca zahteva i može se sprovoditi radi utvrđivanja usklađenosti sa standardizacionim dokumentima, sistemima dobrovoljne sertifikacije. Predmet dobrovoljnog ocenjivanja usaglašenosti su proizvodi, radovi i usluge, kao i drugi objekti za koje su zahtevi utvrđeni dokumentima o standardizaciji, sistemima dobrovoljne sertifikacije i ugovorima. izdaje sertifikate o usaglašenosti za objekte koji su prošli dobrovoljnu sertifikaciju, koji ukazuju na to da se potvrda usaglašenosti ovih objekata sprovodi u okviru sistema dobrovoljne sertifikacije; daje podnosiocima zahteva pravo na primenu znaka usaglašenosti, ako je korišćenje znaka usaglašenosti predviđeno odgovarajućim sistemom dobrovoljne sertifikacije. Dobrovoljni sistem sertifikacije može kreirati pravno lice i (ili) pojedinačni preduzetnik ili više pravnih lica i (ili) pojedinačnih preduzetnika. Lice ili lica koja su kreirala sistem dobrovoljne sertifikacije utvrđuju listu objekata koji podležu sertifikaciji i njihove karakteristike za usaglašenost sa kojima se vrši dobrovoljna sertifikacija, pravila za obavljanje poslova predviđenih ovim sistemom dobrovoljne sertifikacije i postupak njihovog plaćanja, određuju učesnike u ovom sistemu dobrovoljne sertifikacije. Sistem dobrovoljnog sertifikacije može predvideti korišćenje znaka usaglašenosti. Sistem dobrovoljne sertifikacije može registrovati savezni organ izvršne vlasti za tehničku regulaciju.
Moscluster.com je ruska izdavačka i istraživačka kuća – članica Ruske asocijacije Komore tekstila i mode, izdavač časopisa La Boheme Magazine, časopisa Clusters. Istraživanje i razvoj, časopisa Krestyanka (Peasant Woman) koji ove godine slavi stogodišnjicu. Moscluster ima zahvalnost međunarodnog pokreta WorldSkills Russia za pomoć u pokretanju ovog pokreta u Rusiji i uključen je u rejting konsultantskih grupa od strane ruske agencije za kreditni rejting uključene u registar agencija za kreditni rejting Banke Rusije. Moscluster održava Moscluster Međunarodni forum. Predsednik (izvršni direktor) Moscluster-a, glavni i odgovorni urednik časopisa La Bogeme Magazine, časopisa Krestyanka je član Međunarodne federacije novinara (IFJ), doktor ekonomskih nauka, predavač na više univerziteta, dizajner brenda Vladislav Ananishnev – Vladislav Ananishnev.
– 2019. sam godine dobio ideju da spojim profesionalnu modu (i kreativnu ) dodelu i sistem dobrovoljne sertifikacije u skladu sa gore navedenim Federalnim zakonom “O tehničkoj regulativi” od 27. decembra 2002. br. 184-FZ. Nakon brojnih odobrenja i puno posla, u decembru 2019. godine, vladina agencija – Federalna agencija za tehničku regulaciju i metrologiju Ruske Federacije (Rosstandart) registrovala je Moscluster sistem dobrovoljnog sertifikacije La Boheme Awards u Jedinstvenom državnom registru dobrovoljne sertifikacije, Sistemi Ruske Federacije.
Moscluster je razvio sistem standarda sistema menadžmenta kvalitetom sertifikovan za usaglašenost sa GOST R ISO 9001:2015, gde je odredio kriterijume da nominovani bude u skladu sa svakom modnom (kreativnom) nominacijom. Štaviše, sve nominacije su fiksirane i registrovane od strane Federalne agencije za tehničku regulaciju i metrologiju (Rosstandart), ne mogu se menjati bez državne procedure preregistracije. Za objekte dobrovoljnog potvrđivanja usaglašenosti – Moscluster je prihvatio nominacije za modne (kreativne) nagrade (ruske i strane pojedince i organizacije). Rad stručnjaka određen je gore navedenim saveznim zakonom. Tako su Moscluster i La Bogeme Magazine ograničili faktor korupcije samo na sebe.
Nagrade La Bogeme Awards su 2022. godine dostavljene Predsedničkom fondu za kulturne inicijative za drugi konkurs za grantove predsednika Ruske Federacije za realizaciju projekata u oblasti kulture, umetnosti i kreativnih (kreativnih) industrija u 2022. godini. O ovakvoj nagradi je gore govorio dizajner Konstantin Gayday – vlasnik Nacionalne nagrade u oblasti modne industrije “Zlatno vreteno” u nominaciji “Odeća za glavu“.
Više nagrada uz podršku državnih organa ili bilo kakve registracije u Rusiji danas nismo pronašli. Sledeći segment nagrada su nagrade koje su ustanovili modni časopisi – mediji, od kojih su najpoznatije strane izdanja u Rusiji: OK!, Hello!, Fashion TV, GQ i tako dalje. Ali ove nagrade se ne mogu pripisati samo profesionalnim modnim nagradama, jer se dodeljuju i muzičarima, umetnicima, plastičnim hirurzima i drugim ličnostima iz kreativne i kozmetičke industrije. Ruske nedelje mode takođe imaju svoje nagrade, ali ove nagrade nemaju državnu podršku i odgovarajuće registracije.
Glavni problemi modnih nagrada su njihova pripadnost i korupcija: nazivi nominacija nisu trajni i mogu se kreirati za dobitnike nagrada, a ponekad su i potpuno prodati. Takođe, ponekad kriterijum za dodelu nagrada može biti popularnost nominovanog, ali ne i doprinos razvoju kreativne industrije u pravcu nominacije u određenoj godini. Ovo omogućava producentima i organizatorima nagrada da privuku manje poznate nominovane i prodaju im nagrade.
Prezentacija nagrada La Boheme Magazine – La Bogeme Awards održana je na nedelji mode nakita Estet Fashion Week (organizator – Kuća nakita Estet) u novembru 2018. godine. 2021. zatvoren je jedini Pletenina Fashion Week 2022, održan u “silikonskoj dolini” Rusije – Skolkovo Innovation Center u cilju podrške profesionalcima u kreativnim industrijama pre Moskovskog sajma mode (MFF), a prvog oktobra 2022. godine zatvorio je dan otvaranja Neva Fashion Week-a u Sankt Peterburgu, u istorijskoj domovini časopisa La Bogeme Magazine.
Uručenje La Boheme Awards 2022 dizajneru Vyacheslav Zaitsev u Modnoj kući Slava Zajcev u nominaciji Zaslužni modni radnik, Moskva, 2022. Foto: La Boheme Magazine
La Bogeme magazine (ruski: Журнал «Богема»), časopis je o boemskom životu, o modi, lepoti i kulturnom životu; ruski mediji registrovani od strane Federalne službe za nadzor komunikacija, informacionih tehnologija i masovnih komunikacija Ruske Federacije (Roskomnadzor); laureat Nacionalne nagrade u modnoj industriji Zlatno vreteno u nominaciji Izdanje i zvanični informativni partner Moskovske nedelje mode, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Weeka u Rusiji, Nedelje mode nakita Estet Fashion Weeka, CPM-a i Skupštine ruskog plemstva (RNA). Ekosistem časopisa La Boheme Magazine uključuje: La Boheme Awards, La Boheme Contest ili International Talent Contest, La Boheme Interior Design Bureau, Miss La Boheme – takmičenje u lepoti, La Boheme Visage training i tako dalje, modne brendove i Ga-La Boheme Fashion Show verifikovani kanal magazina na ruski video hosting RUTUBE.
La Boheme Awards 2022 na Neva Fashion Weeku 2022, Sankt Peterburg, 2022. Na fotografiji: Glavni i odgovorni urednik časopisa La Boheme Vladislav Ananishnev i La Boheme Awards dobitnici: Dj Nil (Daniil Kizilov). Foto: Neva Fashion Week
Poslednje 3 godine, La Boheme Awards održava se nakon zvaničnog modnog događaja časopisa La Boheme – Gala revije La Boheme Magazina ili Ga-La Boheme Fashion Show – člana Russian Fashion Week asocijacije za promociju modne indzustrije. U 2019. šou je prvi put održan na koncertnom mestu biznismena Andreya Kovaleva (učesnika Rejtinga kraljeva ruskih nekretnina časopisa Forbes Rusija) uz rasprodatu ponudu. Druga revija održana je u glavnom modnom mestu u zemlji – Gostiny dvoru, osnovanom 1520. godine, gde se Nedelja mode u Moskvi održavala do 2020. godine. Dalje, revija i nagrada zatvorili su jedinu specijalizovanu Nedelju pletene mode u Rusiji.
Tri puta je šou po ekskluzivnom ugovoru sa Mosclusterom održan u državnoj ustanovi Centar za kreativnost na Vadkovsky odeljenju za rad i socijalnu zaštitu stanovništva grada Moskve – u nekadašnjem kompleksu zgrada Palata M.S. Kuznetsova – kralja Dulevske fajanse Ruske imperije – dvorište dobavljača. U okviru emisije održano je Međunarodno takmičenje talenata. A poslednji put emisija je održana za prvi put ne u Moskvi, već u bivšoj prestonici Ruske imperije, istorijskoj domovini časopisa La Bogeme Magazine, u okviru Neva Fashion Weeka, gde je istovremeno predstavljeno 15 dizajnera i više od 70 modela. Na Ga-La Boheme Fashion Show održani su završni ispiti za ruske i strane studente u La Boheme Magazinu i Mosclusteru.
Voditelji emisije i nagrade u različito vreme bili su glavni urednik časopisa La Boheme Magazine, Vladislav Ananishnev i dobitnici La Boheme Awards nagrade: Sun Yaowei (student), Irina Savenkova (model), Natalija Kasyanova (dizajner brenda NK Fashion) i drugi.
Finalna revija brenda Vladislav Ananishnev na otvaranju Neva Fashion Weeka 2022. U kolekciji se koriste elementi odeće koje je napravila baka dizajnera, vezilja Nadežda Kitova. U okviru 11. Ga-La Boheme Fashion Show-a u Sankt Peterburgu, 2022. Foto: Neva Fashion Week
Legendarni magazin Krestyanka.ru (Руски – «Крестьянка»), časopis o svakodnevnom životu, stalni je partner dešavanja časopisa La Bogeme Magazine. U okviru Neva Fashion Weeka 2022. održana je modna revija u čast stogodišnjice časopisa, a u Kremlju u Moskvi predstavljena je informacija o godišnjici časopisa u okviru Svetskog dana kulturne raznolikosti za dijalog i razvoj, koji Unesko i Generalna skupština UN proglasili su 21. maja.
Nacionalni dan Kulturne različitosti u okviru manifestacije Dialogue & Development u State Kremlin palate u Moskvi 2022 Fotografija: krestyanka.ru
#ananishnev #moscluster #galaboheme #galabohemefashionshow #журналбогема #krestyankaru #журналкрестьянка #крестьянка #vladislavananishnev #labohememagazine #labohemeawards #fashionawards #galabohemefashionshow #moscluster #labohemevisage #надеждакитова #владиславананишнев #krestyanka #золотоеверетено #золотойманекен #MissLaBoheme #международныйфоруммоскластера #mosclusterinternationalforum
English here:
Harper’s Bazaar Serbia, together with La Boheme Magazine, conducted an analysis of the Russian market of awards in the field of creative industries – fashion.
To begin with, we asked authoritative Russian designers – experts who have been working on the Russian market for many years – what they think about fashion awards (materials are at the disposal of La Boheme Magazine).
Soviet and Russian designer Vyacheslav Mikhailovich Zaitsev (brand “Slava Zaitsev”), whose fashion house in the center of the capital of Russia this year celebrated its 40th anniversary, about which for the first time in 1962 the newspaper “Paris Match” wrote an article “He dictates fashion in Moscow” and whom the European press later called “The Red Dior” (approx. “The Soviet Dior”), believes that the award is “a statement of the fact that the artist has achieved something. Young and talented guys deserve awards. And how will this affect their creativity is further – it all depends on the person. Receiving awards is important for the artist, it supports him, especially if they are financial. When I had the opportunity, I gave cash bonuses to young designers so that they could buy fabrics and make new collections. Prizes promote creativity “.
Designer Julia Dalakian (brand “Julia Dalakian”), a regular participant in leading fashion weeks, including Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, looks at fashion awards somewhat differently: “any incentive for a creative person and entrepreneur definitely has a positive effect on the process of forming a creative personality, if it is a young brand. The competitive basis for awarding awards is not always positive from my point of view, since any jury has a subjective point of view. For young people, the award is a recognition of special abilities and a desire to broaden their horizons, first of all, new technologies and deepen technical knowledge, which, in my opinion, is not enough for novice designers.”
Hats and clothing designer Konstantin Gayday (brand “Konstantin Gayday”) is the winner of the GQ Man of the Year award in the Designer of the Year nomination (2010) according to GQ Russia Magazine to the editorial question: “Do awards have a positive effect on fashion brand pr ?”, also agrees with the opinion of experts and says: “Undoubtedly, awards stimulate the designer not only professionally, but also his ego, and this is important for creators, and they, of course, have a positive effect on brand pr, definitely not negatively.” But he speaks rather negatively about the level of Russian awards: “The award is valuable only if it is a professional award from professionals, be it the guild of artists-designers, well-deserved international publications of the 1st echelon, or maybe the city council. Unfortunately, there are practically no such awards left in our country.”
Womenswear designer Olga Malyarova (brand “Malyarova Olga”), who won the second place in the first Russian version of the international Project Runway (2011) on the MTV Russia channel, believes that “this is very important, especially for creators. You work and work and wait for someone to appreciate it”.
Thus, experts agree that fashion awards encourage clothing designers to further develop, which has a positive effect on the development of the entire textile industry.
Next, we analyzed the prizes awarded over the past 20 years in Russia.
The interregional public organization “High Fashion and Pret-a-Porter Association” existed in Russia from 2000 to 2022. For 22 years, the Association has been developing the project “Fashion Week in Moscow” (since 2013 – “Fashion Week in Moscow. Made in Russia”), the main task of which was to develop the domestic fashion industry, provide comprehensive assistance to Russian designers, promote Russian manufacturers of light and textile industry to the retail markets of the Russian Federation, etc. Fashion Week in Moscow was held 2 times a year – in March and October and completed the world schedule of Fashion Weeks. The total number of Fashion Week guests was over 100,000 per season. During the first 10 years, the organizers of the Fashion Week managed to show the best achievements in the field of fashion, set a high professional bar for Russian designers, and create a mechanism for holding the event that meets international standards. To this end, world fashion masters from France, Italy, Great Britain were invited to the Week, among them Paco Rabanne, Nina Ricci, Lanvin, Versace, Balenciaga, Balmain, Emanuel Ungaro, Sonia Rykel, Brioni, Roberto Cavalli, Costume National, Fendi, Vivenne Westwood and many others, in total more than 50 world fashion names. Between 1999 and 2003 On the last day of the Fashion Week, the Association presented the Golden Mannequin Award (rus. «Золотой манекен»). The association faced challenges in holding yet another fashion season during the covid-19 pandemic and went through bankruptcy and liquidation proceedings in 2022.
Vyacheslav Zaitsev’s show that opened the gala show of the Golden Mannequin winners at the last anniversary Fashion Week in Moscow in honor of its 25th anniversary, March 19, 2019. Photo: Igor Strazhin.
In 2003, the Interregional Public Organization “National Academy of the Fashion Industry” (NAIM) was established in Russia, the purpose of which is to promote the development of the domestic fashion industry, popularize domestic brands of the fashion industry, etc. The president of the academy is Vyacheslav Mikhailovich Zaitsev, and the vice president is Valentin Yudashkin (brand “Valentin Yudashkin”) – the first Russian couturier, who received the status of corresponding member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne), Knight of the Order of the French Republic “For Merit in the Field of Literature and Art” and the Order of the “Legion of Honor”, as well as many other famous figures of Russian fashion. In 2003, with the support of the Ministry of Industry and Trade of the Russian Federation, the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Russia, the National Academy of the Fashion Industry established the Golden Spindle (rus. «Золотое веретено») National Fashion Industry Award, which was awarded annually from 2003 to 2020.
In addition to the official symbol, special awards are presented during the ceremony: “Golden Palm” (rus. «Золотая пальма») – “For the contribution to the development of the Russian fashion industry” and “Crystal Palm” – “For the contribution to the training of the domestic fashion industry”.
Presentation of the National Award in the field of the fashion industry “Golden Spindle” to the La Boheme magazine in the nomination “Edition” to the editor-in-chief Vladislav Ananishnev at the 17th award ceremony, 2020. Photo: Golden Spindle.
Since 2002, the Federal Law “On Technical Regulation” dated December 27, 2002 No. 184-FZ has been in force in Russia. In accordance with Article 21 “Voluntary confirmation of compliance” of this law, voluntary confirmation of compliance is carried out at the initiative of the applicant and can be carried out to establish compliance with standardization documents, voluntary certification systems. The objects of voluntary conformity assessment are products, works and services, as well as other objects in respect of which requirements are established by standardization documents, voluntary certification systems and contracts. issues certificates of conformity for objects that have passed voluntary certification, which indicate that the confirmation of the conformity of these objects is carried out within the framework of the voluntary certification system; provides applicants with the right to apply e mark of conformity, if the use of the mark of conformity is provided for by the relevant system of voluntary certification. A voluntary certification system can be created by a legal entity and (or) an individual entrepreneur or several legal entities and (or) individual entrepreneurs. The person or persons who created the voluntary certification system establish a list of objects subject to certification and their characteristics for compliance with which voluntary certification is carried out, the rules for performing the work provided for by this voluntary certification system and the procedure for their payment, determine the participants in this voluntary certification system. The voluntary certification system may provide for the use of a mark of conformity. The voluntary certification system may be registered by the federal executive body for technical regulation.
Moscluster.com is a Russian publishing house and research company – a member of the Russian Association “Chamber of Textile and Fashion”, publisher of the La Boheme magazine, the magazine “Clusters. Research and development”, the magazine “Krestyanka.ru” (approx.«Peasant Woman»), which is celebrating its centenary this year. Moscluster has the gratitude of the international movement WorldSkills Russia for assistance in launching this movement in Russia and was included in the rating of consulting groups by a Russian credit rating agency included in the register of credit rating agencies of the Bank of Russia. Mosсluster holds the Moscluster International Forum. The President (CEO) of the Moscluster, the Editor-in-Chief of the La Bogeme Magazine, the magazine “Krestyanka” is a member of the International Federation of Journalists (IFJ), Ph.D. in Economics, lecturer at several universities, designer of the brand “Vladislav Ananishnev” – Ananishnev Vladislav (rus. Владислав Ананишнев). He says that “in 2019, I got the idea to combine a professional fashion (and creative) award and a voluntary certification system in accordance with the above Federal Law “On Technical Regulation” dated December 27, 2002 No. 184-FZ. After many approvals and a lot of work, in December 2019, government agency- the Federal Agency for Technical Regulation and Metrology of the Russian Federation (Rosstandart) registered the Moscluster Voluntary Certification System “La Boheme Awards” in the Unified State Register of Voluntary Certification Systems of the Russian Federation”.
Moscluster has developed a system of quality management system standards certified for compliance with GOST R ISO 9001:2015, where he determined the criteria for the nominee to comply with each fashion (creative) nomination. Moreover, all nominations are fixed and registered by the Federal Agency for Technical Regulation and Metrology (Rosstandart), they cannot be changed without the state re-registration procedure. For objects of voluntary confirmation of conformity – Moscluster accepted the nominees of fashionable (creative) awards (Russian and foreign individuals and organizations). And the work of experts is determined by the above federal law. Thus, Moscluster and La Bogeme Magazine limited the corruption factor to themselves.
In 2022, the La Bogeme Awards was submitted to the Presidential Fund for Cultural Initiatives for the second competition for grants from the President of the Russian Federation for the implementation of projects in the field of culture, art and creative (creative) industries in 2022 of the Presidential Fund for Cultural Initiatives.
It was about this kind of award that designer Konstantin Gayday spoke above – the owner of the National Prize in the field of the fashion industry “Golden Spindle” in the “Headwear” nomination.
We have not found more awards with the support of state bodies or any registrations in Russia today. The next segment of the awards are awards established by fashion magazines – the media, the most famous of which are held by foreign publications in Russia: OK!, Hello!, Fashion TV, GQ, etc. But these awards cannot be attributed only to professional fashion awards, since they are also awarded to musicians, artists, plastic surgeons and other figures in the creative and beauty industries. Russian fashion weeks also hold their own awards, but these awards do not have state support and corresponding registrations.
The main problems of fashion awards are their affiliation and corruption: the names of the nominations are not permanent and can be created for the winners of the awards, and sometimes they are completely sold. Also, sometimes the criterion for awarding awards may be the popularity of the nominee, but not the contribution to the development of the creative industry in the direction of the nomination in a particular year. This allows producers and awards organizers to attract lesser-known nominees and sell awards to them.
The presentation of the first La Boheme Awards was held at the jewelry fashion week “Estet Fashion Week” (organizer – Jewelry House “Estet”) in November 2018, in 2021 it closed the only Knitted Fashion Week, in 2022 it was held in “silicon valley» of Russia – the Skolkovo Innovation Center in order to support professionals in the creative industries before the Moscow Fashion Fair (MFF), and on October 1, 2022, closed the opening day of Neva Fashion Week in the city of St. Petersburg in the historical homeland of the La Bogeme Magazine.
Presentation of the La Boheme Awards 2022 to designer Vyacheslav Zaitsev at the Slava Zaitsev Fashion House in the Honored Fashion Worker nomination, Moscow, 2022. Photo: La Boheme Magazine.
La Bogeme Magazine (rus. Журнал «Богема») a magazine about bohemian life: about fashion, beauty and cultural life; Russian media registered by the Federal Service for Supervision of Communications, Information Technology and Mass Communications of the Russian Federation (Roskomnadzor); laureate of the National Award in the fashion industry “Golden Spindle” in the nomination “Edition” and the official information partner of: Moscow Fashion Week, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, Jewelry Fashion Week Estet Fashion Week, CPM and the Russian Nobility Assembly (RNA). Included in Google News. The La Boheme Magazine ecosystem includes: La Boheme Awards, La Boheme Contest or International Talent Contest, La Boheme Interior Design Bureau, La Boheme Visage training, etc., fashion brands and the Ga-La Boheme Fashion Show, verified channel of the magazine on the Russian video hosting RUTUBE.
For the last 3 years, the La Boheme Awards was held after the official fashion event of the La Boheme Magazine – the Gala Show of the La Boheme Magazine or Ga-La Boheme Fashion Show – a member of the Russian Fashion Week Association for the Promotion of the Fashion Industry. In 2019, the show was held for the first time at the concert venue of businessman Andrey Kovalev (participant in the “Rating of the Kings of Russian Real Estate” magazine Forbes Russia) with a sold-out. The second show was held at the country’s main fashion venue – Gostiny Dvor, founded in 1520, and where Fashion Week in Moscow was held until 2020. Further, the show and the award closed the only specialized Knitted Fashion Week in Russia. 3 times the show under an exclusive agreement with Mosсluster was held in the state institution “Creativity Center” on Vadkovsky” of the Department of Labor and Social Protection of the Population of the City of Moscow – in the former complex of buildings of the “Moscow Palace” of M.S. Kuznetsov – the king of the Dulevo faience of the Russian Empire – the supplier yard. As part of the show, a competition was held by the Public organization “International Talent Contest”. And the last time the show was held for the first time not in Moscow, but in the former capital of the Russian Empire, the historical homeland of the La Bogeme Magazine, as part of Neva Fashion Week, where 15 designers and more than 70 models were presented at once. As part of the Ga-La Boheme Fashion Show, final exams were held for Russian and foreign students in the La Boheme Magazine and Moscluster.
The hosts of the show and awards at various times were the editor-in-chief of the La Boheme Magazine Vladislav Ananishnev and the winners of the La Boheme Awards: Sun Yaowei (student), Irina Savenkova (model), Natalia Kasyanova (designer of the NK Fashion brand) and others.
The final show of the brand “Vladislav Ananishnev” at the opening day of Neva Fashion Week 2022 as part of the 11th Ga-La Boheme Fashion Show, St. Petersburg, 2022. The collection uses elements of clothing made by the designer’s grandmother, embroiderer Nadezhda Kitova.Photo: Neva Fashion Week
The legendary Magazine “Krestyanka.ru” (rus. «Крестьянка»), a magazine about everyday life, is a permanent partner of the events of the La Bogeme Magazine. Included in Google News. As part of Neva Fashion Week 2022, a fashion show was held in honor of the magazine’s centennial anniversary, and in the Kremlin in Moscow, information about the magazine’s anniversary was presented as part of the World Day for Cultural Diversity for Dialogue and Development, which UNESCO and the UN General Assembly proclaimed on May 21.
World Day for Cultural Diversity for Dialogue and Development at the State Kremlin Palace, Moscow, Kremlin, 2022. Photo: krestyanka.ru.
#ananishnev #moscluster #galaboheme #galabohemefashionshow #журналбогема #krestyankaru #журналкрестьянка #крестьянка #vladislavananishnev #labohememagazine #labohemeawards #fashionawards #galabohemefashionshow #moscluster #labohemevisage #надеждакитова #владиславананишнев #krestyanka #золотоеверетено #золотойманекен #MissLaBoheme #международныйфоруммоскластера #mosclusterinternationalforum
